Can someone give me a reliable, consistent way to quickly get the engine started? Sometimes following the POH works, many/most times it does not. I've tried several slightly different variations to the startup procedure, but none of them consistently gets it started within the first couple of tries. I would like a step-by-step procedure for both a cold and hot engine.
Thanks,
Ron
Start up
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Ron Spiker
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It seems to me that every IO-360 is different; however, for me the best approach cold is to open the throttle 5% or so and run the fuel pump in (Mixture rich) until fuel flow stabilizes around 6GPH for 3 seconds. I then go lean mixture and it fires right up. I then move the throttle back and forth very slightly to clear the engine and it purrs right along.
For warm start, I do the exact same procedure except I limit the priming to an initial 6GPH indication. It may flood very slightly, but I have found that is better than cranking it for longs periods. Also, my skytech starter gives much better starting performance and a good strong battery will greatly improve the starting also.
For warm start, I do the exact same procedure except I limit the priming to an initial 6GPH indication. It may flood very slightly, but I have found that is better than cranking it for longs periods. Also, my skytech starter gives much better starting performance and a good strong battery will greatly improve the starting also.
If your wings aren't turning, they are broken and you had better get them fixed....
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Ron Spiker
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starting made better
Take a look at the starter vibrator (shower of sparks) points. Make sure they are clean & not corroded.
Mine starts easily without using a strict procedure, either hot or cold.
Boy!! It didn't use to be this way! It use to not start for crap but when I fixed my starter vibrator.... whala!
Mine starts easily without using a strict procedure, either hot or cold.
Boy!! It didn't use to be this way! It use to not start for crap but when I fixed my starter vibrator.... whala!
YHO-3BR Pilots International
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Captain Cosmic
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For Easier Starting - Prime and Preflight
It was recommended to me that you prime the helicopter (get the fuel flowing) and then do your walkaround. That way the fuel gets a chance to vaporize before you turn the engine over. Any thoughts?
--Steven Brouillette
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Steve Chenoweth
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Starting Procedures
Starting is somewhat of a mystery to me as well. I have had to charge my battery more times than I care to mention. But here are some things that I have tried and seem to help.
Cold Start: Turn on the fuel boost pump, push the mixture all of the way in, and open the throttle all of the way. As soon as you see some fuel flow, in about 3 seconds, turn off the fuel boost pump and close the throttle until you hear the micro switch click. Leave the the mixture all of the way in and press the start button. This technique was taught to me by an A&P and works almost every time I have tried it. However, there is some danger of a quick start (and possible blade damage) if you get too much fuel in and it detonates, as this can speed up the RPM and engage the clutch. So if you try this technique, make sure not to run the fuel pump too long. Although this works, I do not try it anymore because I am too afraid of a quick start.
For Hot Start: Leave the mixture all the way out, do not turn on the fuel pump, and have the throttle set below the micro switch. Push the start button and let it crank. The engine will either not start, or will start and then die. This way, you have gotten the fuel out and know what you are dealing with. Then turn on the fuel boost pump, push the mixture all the way in, roll on the throttle about half way, then pull the mixture back out and move the throttle down below the micro switch. Push the start button, and when it starts to catch, quickly push the mixture all the way back in.
Let me know if any of this helps, or if anyone has a better technique.
Cold Start: Turn on the fuel boost pump, push the mixture all of the way in, and open the throttle all of the way. As soon as you see some fuel flow, in about 3 seconds, turn off the fuel boost pump and close the throttle until you hear the micro switch click. Leave the the mixture all of the way in and press the start button. This technique was taught to me by an A&P and works almost every time I have tried it. However, there is some danger of a quick start (and possible blade damage) if you get too much fuel in and it detonates, as this can speed up the RPM and engage the clutch. So if you try this technique, make sure not to run the fuel pump too long. Although this works, I do not try it anymore because I am too afraid of a quick start.
For Hot Start: Leave the mixture all the way out, do not turn on the fuel pump, and have the throttle set below the micro switch. Push the start button and let it crank. The engine will either not start, or will start and then die. This way, you have gotten the fuel out and know what you are dealing with. Then turn on the fuel boost pump, push the mixture all the way in, roll on the throttle about half way, then pull the mixture back out and move the throttle down below the micro switch. Push the start button, and when it starts to catch, quickly push the mixture all the way back in.
Let me know if any of this helps, or if anyone has a better technique.
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Kevin Hynes
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Starting Problems
Hello FlyLow,
So far lots of good input from others. Biggest deal, having a good starter and battery, good starting vibrator, and good points in starting magneto, and proper throttle setting.
Steve brought up the Skytech starter, like he said, be sure you have the right "tooth" set up and that the starter doesn't affect the starter-vibrator. I have Skytech on mine, cranks it over great.
The system uses the starter-vibrator and I believe a set of starting points in the Left mag, Right out of Loop (?double check maint man?) If it doesn't seem to be firing to run until you are releasing the starter button, vibrator and/or points are bad, and the regular magneto points are firing as the engine is still turning when the starter is released (releasing the starter button allows the regular set of points in both mags to fire).
As Steve can atest, BE SURE the starter's throttle micro switch is properly set, it should be just barely open, to much and BAD ($$$$) things will happen.
HOT or COLD, I start the same. Fuel Pump on, Mixture IN, Throttle all of the way open until some indication of fuel flow needle movement (doesn't have to be steady, just movement), then Mixture OUT, Throttle CLOSED to setting, CRANK (or Crank-Crank when hot). As the engine starts and runs, Mixture IN, throttle set for 1000RPM +/-. If the system is in good shape, works everytime.
HOT starts will crank a little longer, don't be afraid to let it turn (time it, its probably not as long as you suspect, but keep it under 30 seconds, then allow to cool a minute). Over priming is usually not a problem, excess (if any) should be running out the overflow drain on the right side, just below the exhaust. If you don't see anything, its either plugged or not primed to much. If over primed, it will just take a little more cranking to get it to the right fuel air mixture setting, but it should start. If primed right, it will also amaze you how long it will run with the Mixture OUT.
Each engine can kind of develope its own quirks, so give the various suggestions a try and see what works best. Don't be afraid to experiment a little. (But please, REALLY double check the throttle micro switch). Kevin
So far lots of good input from others. Biggest deal, having a good starter and battery, good starting vibrator, and good points in starting magneto, and proper throttle setting.
Steve brought up the Skytech starter, like he said, be sure you have the right "tooth" set up and that the starter doesn't affect the starter-vibrator. I have Skytech on mine, cranks it over great.
The system uses the starter-vibrator and I believe a set of starting points in the Left mag, Right out of Loop (?double check maint man?) If it doesn't seem to be firing to run until you are releasing the starter button, vibrator and/or points are bad, and the regular magneto points are firing as the engine is still turning when the starter is released (releasing the starter button allows the regular set of points in both mags to fire).
As Steve can atest, BE SURE the starter's throttle micro switch is properly set, it should be just barely open, to much and BAD ($$$$) things will happen.
HOT or COLD, I start the same. Fuel Pump on, Mixture IN, Throttle all of the way open until some indication of fuel flow needle movement (doesn't have to be steady, just movement), then Mixture OUT, Throttle CLOSED to setting, CRANK (or Crank-Crank when hot). As the engine starts and runs, Mixture IN, throttle set for 1000RPM +/-. If the system is in good shape, works everytime.
HOT starts will crank a little longer, don't be afraid to let it turn (time it, its probably not as long as you suspect, but keep it under 30 seconds, then allow to cool a minute). Over priming is usually not a problem, excess (if any) should be running out the overflow drain on the right side, just below the exhaust. If you don't see anything, its either plugged or not primed to much. If over primed, it will just take a little more cranking to get it to the right fuel air mixture setting, but it should start. If primed right, it will also amaze you how long it will run with the Mixture OUT.
Each engine can kind of develope its own quirks, so give the various suggestions a try and see what works best. Don't be afraid to experiment a little. (But please, REALLY double check the throttle micro switch). Kevin
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Ron Spiker
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Captain Cosmic
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Another way of looking at the difficult starting
I want to point out that the difficult procedure to get one of these helicopters started is in itself an anti-theft feature. If you do not know what you are doing, you are NOT going to get one started! I don't know any other helicopter that is harder to start.
In Europe (it could be only in England) there is some kind of 2 lock regulation. You have to have 2 locks on the aircraft. The door lock key and the starter/mag key are permissible. The Brantly then has a 3rd lock.
Say Mister Thief, I dare you to get this started.
In Europe (it could be only in England) there is some kind of 2 lock regulation. You have to have 2 locks on the aircraft. The door lock key and the starter/mag key are permissible. The Brantly then has a 3rd lock.
Say Mister Thief, I dare you to get this started.
--Steven Brouillette
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Ron Spiker
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Well, I tried your start-up suggestions (all of them!) this weekend and it still took about 10 minutes to get the blasted thing going! Guess I'll check the hardware, as a couple of you suggest. The starter and battery are both good, but I'll check the vibrator, magnetos, and other things listed in the thread. Once it finally starts it runs and flies great, but I'm getting real frustrated with just trying to get it started.
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Ron Spiker
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Well, it looks like I've got a process that is working for me. Pretty much the same process that Kevin listed, but I maintain full throttle and mixture in for 5 seconds. Here's the steps I tried twice this weekend and it started and kept running within just 2-3 seconds of activating the starter.
Full pump on, mixture in, full throttle for 5 seconds, throttle off until micro-switch deactivates (10%), mixture out, hit starter. Starts right away, mixture in, then follow POH for warm-up. Thanks, guys, for your suggestions.
Full pump on, mixture in, full throttle for 5 seconds, throttle off until micro-switch deactivates (10%), mixture out, hit starter. Starts right away, mixture in, then follow POH for warm-up. Thanks, guys, for your suggestions.
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Steve Chenoweth
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Warm Start Working Too?
Glad to hear your starting better now. Has your techique proved successful on warm starts too?
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks,
Steve
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Ron Spiker
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