oil change

[richard]

bob the mechanic and myself got into an oil change including the oil screen , went well, but i will bet most people do not get into the oil screen
also sent out oil sample for test
I think the kit for oil filter that lycoming sells might not be a bad idea Does anyone have any experience with an oil filter for the brantly

dick murphy

i think it might

[maulepilot]

I am changing my oil and having trouble getting the screen out. Can anyone tell me how to get the left two bolts out. Not sure if I need special tools or remove the fuel line.


jim

[robmbj]

We removed fue line and I used a thin=wall socket 1/4 drive
Hope this helps

[Ron Spiker]

I've used a 1/2 height socket with a wobble extension to get those bolts out. The design isn't very good to get access to the screen though.

I had another Brantly owner contact me off-line a couple months ago about a filter conversion. Part of his conversation is copied here.

Something you or other Brantly owners might be interested in. The ships have no true oil filter, just a screen. The Airwolf Company in the past, made a conversion (made expecially for the Brantly)I have seen on an older ship which replaces the cover of the Brantly oil screen and is piped to an accessible filter in the baggage compartment. It not only is a true filter, but is easily accessible. I contacted them and asked what it would take to get one. The owner stated that they are using new methods to make the castings and would need a minimun of 12 for them to this specific one again. They make them for others like Robinson.Cost 900 +/- complete. Are you interested and do you know any others I can see if they are interested.

flylow

[maulepilot]

Yep I would be interested in a filter.

[Rotorswing]

From what I can tell, they started with that bolt your concerned with and built a helicopter around it.

[jwgood]

I talked with Airwolf at Oshkosh, but it was a while back. I'm curious as to how they would route the pressure and return lines. This was an idea that we toy'd with quite a bit when i was still with brantly. I don't know about you guys, but that engine compartment is stuffed full enough. As for removing the screen, the 1/4 in drive with a two universal joints and a socket with a small magnet in the end of the socket. Getting it off is the easy part... The fun begins when you go to put it back in. Happy hovering and fly safe...

[donlew]

I had a very respectable mechanic advise me on this very issue.
After fighting through several oil changes.

The easiest way I have found to be able to get to the screen housing is to disconect the push pull tube linkage to the swash plate.

One needs to be careful with the jamb nut on the bottom and extreemly careful with the cone shaped washers next to the rod end at the top.

I made a practice of putting my magnet right next to the rod end so as not to drop or loose these caned washers.

Good luck.

[maulepilot]

I as well just completed a oil change and screen. I did the same on the control rod. I also bought some wobble extensions and they helped a lot. I messed around with it for a week, but believe i can do it in a day the next time. I had alot of problems diconnecting the control rod at the bottom. I don't think the bottom will have to be done the next time. probabley enough room just removing the top bolt.

Jim

[bryancobb]

Hey Guys:

I just finished an oil change yesterday. Usually when I do it .. I have fits getting it out. Then I have fits to the third power, gettin it back in.

Well this time I took notes and pictures as it came out and wow! I got it out in 5 minutes without disconnecting fuel lines or pushrod tubes. Then putting it back in went just as easy.

Here's my lessons learned:
1) 1/4" drive ratchet with 2 long extensions and a universal joint is a must.
2) Wrap the universal joint with a couple or three wraps of masking tape to make it stiff so you can position the socket on an angle and it will stay.
3) When putting the bolts back in, wrap the bolt head with 2 wraps of a skinny strip of masking tape so the head of the bolt fits pretty snug in the socket.
4) On the way out, kind-of parallel park the housing over to your right side and with the opening pointed downward and the thermocouple connection upward. There's more room over there to twist and flip the housing so that the housing opening is upward and the thermocouple connection is downward.
5) Now maneuver the housing down and point the thermocouple connection toward the tail of the helicopter and place its threads deep BETWEEN the 2 thin metal ribs of the left front engine mount.
6) This will position the housing so that the 4 bolt-hole flanges will rotate right out between the 2 pushrod tubes.
7) It HAS to go back in just exactly the reverse of how it came out, so very first thing, point those threads back in between those engine mount ribs.

Hope this helps .

[MarkMcDaniel]

Bryan,

Followed your instructions on screen removal, worked just fine. Thank for your post.

Mark McDaniel

[HELISCAN]

I took some pic's of my oil filter. I did not make the conversion, but thought it would be helpful.

Dave Mathews

[jwgood]

I don't know what's worse, removing/installing the screen or removing/installing the baggage compartment?

I do like that installation of the filter. Simple and clean.

[seneca2e]

Hey Guys:

I just finished an oil change yesterday. Usually when I do it .. I have fits getting it out. Then I have fits to the third power, gettin it back in.

Well this time I took notes and pictures as it came out and wow! I got it out in 5 minutes without disconnecting fuel lines or pushrod tubes. Then putting it back in went just as easy.

Here's my lessons learned:
1) 1/4" drive ratchet with 2 long extensions and a universal joint is a must.
2) Wrap the universal joint with a couple or three wraps of masking tape to make it stiff so you can position the socket on an angle and it will stay.
3) When putting the bolts back in, wrap the bolt head with 2 wraps of a skinny strip of masking tape so the head of the bolt fits pretty snug in the socket.
4) On the way out, kind-of parallel park the housing over to your right side and with the opening pointed downward and the thermocouple connection upward. There's more room over there to twist and flip the housing so that the housing opening is upward and the thermocouple connection is downward.
5) Now maneuver the housing down and point the thermocouple connection toward the tail of the helicopter and place its threads deep BETWEEN the 2 thin metal ribs of the left front engine mount.
6) This will position the housing so that the 4 bolt-hole flanges will rotate right out between the 2 pushrod tubes.
7) It HAS to go back in just exactly the reverse of how it came out, so very first thing, point those threads back in between those engine mount ribs.

Hope this helps .

This has to be one of the best posts on the entire board!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks Bryan!!

[bryancobb]

Thanks for the kind words, sir! Glad it helped.