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Moderator: Paul Sehorne
Tool & Rivits
Hey Lujo:
http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet62.htm
#4505
http://www.hansonrivet.com/w04a.htm
9/64" #4-3.5 "of Course you know that to be legal, the rivets you
use must be the exact Brantly part# which Doyle
in parts can give you."
Bryan Cobb
http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet62.htm
#4505
http://www.hansonrivet.com/w04a.htm
9/64" #4-3.5 "of Course you know that to be legal, the rivets you
use must be the exact Brantly part# which Doyle
in parts can give you."
Bryan Cobb
YHO-3BR Pilots International
Rotor Brake Info.
Hey Lujo:
When you get your parts from Doyle, you'll see that it's pretty straight-forward.
A few pointers:
1) begin by shaping the steel band (if you're replacing it too) by hand, to approximate the curve of the old one you took off.
2) The new lining seems to have metal strands in it and the rivet holes in the lining may need cleaning out a little so the rivets will go through. Do not ENLARGE the holes, just use a high-rpm tool like a dremmel with a small abrasive spindle (or something similar) to clean up the hole's edges.
3) When the rivets are installed correctly, they'll have a nice "curl" to the end that you flare. It should roll around uniformly and look like a tiny little donut.
4) The new band will have to be drilled through in one place to allow the threaded adjusting screw to pass through the 11-21 bushing.
5) Most important item. Clean all traces of grease or slick stuff off of the brake drum, Make SURE that the brake is tight enough to LOCK the rotor completely when applied, (This saves wrinkling the blades on botched startups) . and BE 100% SURE that the brake completely disengages when off and is not causing unwanted braking action.
Mine adjusted out as follows: When fully applied, the cockpit lever is about midway of it's travel. When fully disengaged, The cockpit lever locks BELOW the rolled-pin which is it's flight position. The band itself is still touching the drum but can be wiggled easily back-n-forth and the rotor clearly turns free.
Oh yea... all the parts should be checked for cracks, in my opinion. I used Magnaflux brand spray-on dye-penetrant kit from aircraft spruce.
Hope it goes good
Bryan
When you get your parts from Doyle, you'll see that it's pretty straight-forward.
A few pointers:
1) begin by shaping the steel band (if you're replacing it too) by hand, to approximate the curve of the old one you took off.
2) The new lining seems to have metal strands in it and the rivet holes in the lining may need cleaning out a little so the rivets will go through. Do not ENLARGE the holes, just use a high-rpm tool like a dremmel with a small abrasive spindle (or something similar) to clean up the hole's edges.
3) When the rivets are installed correctly, they'll have a nice "curl" to the end that you flare. It should roll around uniformly and look like a tiny little donut.
4) The new band will have to be drilled through in one place to allow the threaded adjusting screw to pass through the 11-21 bushing.
5) Most important item. Clean all traces of grease or slick stuff off of the brake drum, Make SURE that the brake is tight enough to LOCK the rotor completely when applied, (This saves wrinkling the blades on botched startups) . and BE 100% SURE that the brake completely disengages when off and is not causing unwanted braking action.
Mine adjusted out as follows: When fully applied, the cockpit lever is about midway of it's travel. When fully disengaged, The cockpit lever locks BELOW the rolled-pin which is it's flight position. The band itself is still touching the drum but can be wiggled easily back-n-forth and the rotor clearly turns free.
Oh yea... all the parts should be checked for cracks, in my opinion. I used Magnaflux brand spray-on dye-penetrant kit from aircraft spruce.
Hope it goes good
Bryan
YHO-3BR Pilots International
Sorry
Hey Lujo:
I'm so sorry!
I just have replaced my rotor brake lining and was on that chain-of-thought.
I replaced my clutch-lining about a year ago. I went out to my friend's hanger and did that,and he had this nifty tool, specifically designed to knock (Yes I said knock) out those old rivets and install the new ones.
It has a deep throat "c" kind of like a scroll saw. The top part of the "C" has a plunger that you tap with a hammer and it stays perfectly aligned and knocks out the old and sets the new rivets.
I'll call him & see about source and cost etc.
Thanks
Bryan
I'm so sorry!
I just have replaced my rotor brake lining and was on that chain-of-thought.
I replaced my clutch-lining about a year ago. I went out to my friend's hanger and did that,and he had this nifty tool, specifically designed to knock (Yes I said knock) out those old rivets and install the new ones.
It has a deep throat "c" kind of like a scroll saw. The top part of the "C" has a plunger that you tap with a hammer and it stays perfectly aligned and knocks out the old and sets the new rivets.
I'll call him & see about source and cost etc.
Thanks
Bryan
YHO-3BR Pilots International
Tool Needed
YHO-3BR Pilots International